Destinations: Madeira For Beginners

What's It Like?

Much more varied than you might imagine. Wonderful views of jagged volcanic peaks to the west, more gentle coastal promontories to the east, terraced field systems all over the place. Some of the interior is uncannily like Dartmoor with granite tors and lots of things like Drake's Leat called "Levadas"

Why are you telling me about Levadas?

Because you can walk along them. They're narrow channels of water that were built initially by slaves for irrigation. You walk on, or alongside, the concrete walls that channel the water along and down the mountainsides.

Are They Steep?

Some are, some aren't. There's a lovely flat one at Cristo Rei, but for the steep ones start at the top, walk down and get a bus back up to where you parked your car. We did that twice it was dead good.

Car? Do I Really Need One?

No. With a bit of planning you can use buses. They go all over the island, they're cheap and reliable. However a car does give you that much more flexibility, especially if this is your first visit.

Where can I find out about all this?

The best guide-book by a mile is "Madeira - Car Tours and Walks" by John and Pat Underwood published by Sunflower Books.

www.sunflowerbooks.co.uk

Give One Good Tip You Picked Up From It.

Asking for chestnut soup at the Vale das Freiras Restauarant after walking from Eira Do Serrado to Curral. It was wonderful!

Where's The Best Restaurant?

Definitely go to El Gordo on the Rua de Santa Maria in the old town part of Funchal. It's a couple of streets behind the cable-car ticket office on the sea-front. It used to be a pizza place but not any more. Ask for something cooked "on the stone". The swordfish is brilliant the fillet steak phenomenal. The value for money is good. Fast food it ain't, quality it most definitely is. Do NOT come back without having gone there.

What Else Is Good To Eat?

Try the amazing beef kebabs. Chunks of marinaded beef on bay-wood skewers. Plenty of olive oil and garlic involved too. Juicy and tasty. They've also got a thing about fish with cooked banana. Strange but it seems to work okay.

Any Live Music?

If you like Mandolins there is.

Eh?

The Madeira Mandolin Orchestra play in the English Church most weeks. It's advertised all over the place and makes a diverting listen as about 24 of them pluck away pretty skilfully at light classics.

www.madeiramandolinorchestra.com/en/

What's the weather like?

Pretty warm when we went in early March but being an island (and a tall one at that) it varies enormously across the island and it changes quickly. Can be cloudy in the morning and bright in the afternoon or the other way about. When we walked the Levada at Cristo Rei we were in bright sunshine above the cloudline which was pretty ace.

Anything Else To Recommend?

Quite a lot really. A Sunday morning jeep safari is pretty good especially if it takes you to the Sunday Market at Santo da Serra which was a sight to behold. Try some of the local hooch "poncho." It gives your taste buds a very pleasing mauling.

What about The Language?

There's only one word you need to know. If you're a bloke it's "Obrigado" , if you're a dame it's "Obrigada." Say it with a bit of Iberian panache and it goes down well. Portugese is a bit like Spanish but there are subtle changes in tone that are indistinguishable to my ears but speak volumes to the Iberian ear.

Where Did You Stay?

In the Pestana Casino Hotel close to the harbour in Funchal. It's a new place, big, quite swish but with friendly staff. Several restauarants in the hotel but probably you'll want to go downtown. Did I mention El Gordo earlier on? I think I did. GO THERE!

The hotel was part of the package booked through First Choice who were well organised and efficient. Staying in Funchal close to the harbour is probably the best thing to do for a newbie. Second time around you can think about a villa or "Quinta" in Porto Moniz or one of the towns in the interior.

www.pestanacasinopark.com/


Flights Okay?

Ours were but it's slightly unsettling landing on a strip built out over the sea. Don't worry, the runway IS long enough! Really, it is. The airport was very crowded on our departure. If you've got time, it's worth going into the restaurant after security not the buffet. It's much less crowded, isn't expensive and there's a really good view.

Will You Be Going Back?

Yes